The bottle aging cellars at Drouhin-Laroze
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze, Gevrey-Chambertin
These are notes compiled for a tasting at the Domaine on the afternoon of January 21, 2010. Actual notes from the tasting will be posted tomorrow.
History
This domaine is managed today by Philippe and Christine Drouhin. The estate was originally founded in 1850 in Gevrey-Chambertin, by Jean-Baptiste Laroze. In 1919 his granddaughter, Suzanne, married Alexandre Drouhin – who owned vines in Chambolle-Musigny. With the unison of these parcels, the estate changed its name to Drouhin-Laroze. Under the leadership of Bernard Drouhin, the domaine built a solid reputation, but a changing of the guard occurred with his death in 2001. Bernard’s son Philippe took control of the estate and made several changes to further improve the quality of the wines. Yields were cut and more precise temperature control was implemented during the vinification. The efforts quickly paid off. Subsequent vintages have produced deeper, richer wines that now rival the best from the village.
Winemaking
Philippe believes in exceptional vineyard management, which enables him to have the freshest, purest wines possible. His style falls somewhere between a modernist and a traditionalist. Green harvesting is performed and the yields are well controlled. A vibrating sorting table is used to ensure only the best fruit enters each vat. After fermentation, the wines rest in oak for eighteen months. Though his top wines are ripe, clean and aged in new oak (50% for 1er crus and 100% for grand crus), they are at the same time pure and earthy. Their understated concentration balances out any new wood flavours or textures. One year old barrels are used for the village level wines. All the wines are bottled without fining or filtration. The result is dark, powerful cuvees that are a little rustic and unforgiving in their youth. Time in the bottle, however, reveals wines that are fragrant and flavourful.
Vineyards
Domaine Drouhin-Laroze owns 11.50 hectares of vineyards, including village, premier cru and grand cru sites. In addition to an excellent village Gevrey, the estate makes Morey-Saint-Denis from old vines (1946) in the lieu-dit Tres Girard (0.18 ha.). A special village wine is made in Chambolle-Musigny from two parcels. 80% of the cuvee comes from the premier cru Les Baudes (0.18 ha.) and 20% from the lieu-dit Les Veroilles (0.04 ha.), both of which adjoin Bonnes Mares. In Gevrey, the domaine owns plots in four premier cru vineyards. Vines were planted here in 1943 and 1953. Lavaux-Saint-Jacques, located just south of Clos-Saint-Jacques, is regarded as one of the best premier cru sites of Gevrey. Drouhin-Laroze’s parcel in Lavaux (0.30 ha.) dates from 1943. The domaine has a well situated parcel in the “Des Papes” area of Clos Vougeot (1.03 ha.), located in the upper portion of the vineyard. With 1.49 hectares, the domaine is the second largest owner in Bonnes Mares. The parcel is located on terres blanches soil in the Chambolle portion of the vineyard. The grand crus of Gevrey are well represented at this estate. In addition to plots in Latricieres-Chambertin (0.67 ha.) and Chapelle-Chambertin (0.52 ha.), Drouhin-Laroze has vines that date back to 1949 in Chambertin-Clos des Beze (1.39 ha.). In 1996 a precious plot of Le Musigny (0.12 ha.) was purchased.